No-Dig, by Darren Stephens

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No-Dig, by Darren Stephens

Summer State of Mind

August 2024

Midsummer isn't just a date on the calendar; it's a state of mind. When this time arrives, we feel a sense of freedom, fully embracing the uplifting effects of sunlight. This sentiment is reflected in the kitchen garden as well. Leafy vines fill the polytunnel, summer beans reach for the sky, every bed overflows with crops, and the produce transforms into a vibrant kaleidoscope of colours.

It's that abundant time of year when I could happily spend most of my blog just describing the bounty we're harvesting—a delightful change from complaining about the weather.

Tomatoes are my absolute favourite and the most exciting harvest of all. They kept us waiting, but as always, they're totally worth it. This year's harvest is ten days later than last year, which isn't surprising given the challenging spring. Interestingly, the tomatoes were sown four weeks earlier on February 14th. Clearly, with tomatoes, earlier sowing doesn't guarantee earlier harvesting. A new favourite variety is 'Pico’s Pride,' a dwarf plant with incredible variegated stems and yellow fruit bursting with flavour.

I'm also growing four varieties of cucumber: the green 'Telegraph' cucumber 'Carmen,' which has cropped early and prolifically, and three unique varieties—'Boothby’s Blonde,' 'Dragon Egg,' and 'Miniature White.' These shorter, stumpier, and paler cousins of the traditional green cucumber have great texture and are incredibly juicy. I've set up a little cutting board with a pot of flaky salt in the polytunnel for guests to wander through the jungle of vines and indulge in a tasting. There's something special about eating a cucumber or tomato that hasn't been refrigerated while surrounded by the plants themselves. I also can’t forget to mention the harvests of padron peppers and aubergines also coming from the polytunnel.

The polytunnel has been noticeably quiet over the past month. Usually, insects get trapped inside, tapping away at the polythene as they try to escape, creating a sound reminiscent of heavy rain. The cooler early summer weather seems to have delayed their life cycles. However, cabbage white butterflies have finally arrived, fluttering around clumsily as they look for brassica leaves to lay their eggs—albeit later than usual.

Chard is hitting its stride this month, the poster boy for any kitchen garden. It ticks all the boxes with its stunning colour, good structure, crunchy stalks, and dark, mineral-rich leaves. You'll find it featured in our summer Sunday roasts. 

August will bring the first of the leafy kales, with 'Cavolo Nero' being a standout. This chef's favourite is known for its dark colour, strong flavour, and ability to hold its structure well when cooked. There's no rush to pick it, as it will hold happily until autumn when the chard slows down.

Our main crop variety, ‘Pink Fir Apple’ potatoes, faced a fierce battle with early blight, an airborne menace that devastates potatoes by sweeping through the plants and even rotting the tubers. Fortunately, we caught it early and managed to salvage a good portion of the harvest, though we did lose about 40% in total. If you notice brown circular patches on your potato leaves, act fast and harvest as soon as possible. Despite the setback, the potatoes we saved are nothing short of spectacular. Proving difficult to overcook and delightful to eat earning a well-deserved spot on the menu at all three of our hotels. 

Heritage carrots, I am incredibly pleased to say are now looking very promising after many failed attempts at sowing in early spring. Showing persistence is key when growing. They are baby in size now as I thin them out leaving room for larger ones to grow for autumn harvests.

Our bean teepees are finally so full that the bamboo sticks supporting them are unnoticeable. At one point, I thought we might not get a harvest this year, but as soon as the temperature tipped past 25°C, the beans pulled their socks up and haven't stopped growing since. The colours continue here with purple, yellow, and green French beans, a flat-podded yellow bean, and two varieties of runner beans. The purple beans ‘A cosse de Violette' also produce magnificent purple flowers.

The garden is simply breathtaking this time of year. The hotel grounds look lush for August, with little pockets of rain keeping everything green. The grass has been growing at an incredible rate, keeping Steve, our head gardener, very busy on the lawnmower. When he makes it around to the kitchen garden, it makes a huge difference, framing the beds perfectly and enhancing the area's visual appeal. I wish I could capture it in a photograph, but the garden's sprawl makes it impossible to do it justice from the ground

In the garden, tasks are very reactive this time of year; nothing is planned weeks in advance. Each day begins with a walk around every bed, and the job list grows rapidly. Constant developments require continuous attention and quick reactions—whether it be weeding, watering, supporting, or watching for pest or disease damage. All of this effort is to ensure we get the maximum potential from our crops. 

Speaking of which I better get back to it….

My new recipe is up - FIG LEAF PANNA COTTA WITH RASPBERRIES, WHITE CURRANTS AND HONEY

Until next time…

Darren Stephens

Chef-Gardener, Homewood

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