Leaves are dropping along with the temperatures, mushrooms emerge in damp clusters through the leaf litter and the pace slows. The lush plants bursting with life such a short time ago look all used up. Yet the range of what's available is still stunning, celeriac, carrots, radicchio, leeks, a world of pumpkins and of course cabbages. The colours and palette are more subtle now gone are the assertive flavours of early season veg, what autumn brings is a whole lot of earthiness, mellowness and sweetness.
The shortening length of daylight offers me a reprieve in working hours but the task list remains long, especially when it comes to tidying up.
I’m pleased to see many people wandering through the kitchen garden thanks to the mild weather. And lately, I’ve heard more than once, “I didn’t expect the garden to look so full this time of year.” And it’s true; the beds, while slowly emptying, still offer plenty. Today we said farewell to the last of the beetroots that have been a constant since June thanks to successful sowing.
There is no more planting this year so when beds do become empty they will stay empty until spring making it the perfect time to replenish them with nutrients after a draining summer. This is where all the work making compost over the growing season pays off. There's always a bit of excitement opening up one of the compost bays and plunging the pitchfork deep into the compost to see the final result. It's always a little bit different depending on what was added but it's always nutrient-rich and full of life. Worms, bugs, slow worms and often voles love to borrow through it.
Following the no-dig way this black gold is spread over the beds rather than digging it in, enriching the soil naturally. We make enough compost to feed about two-thirds of our beds while we make up the rest with mushroom compost from a local supplier. The soil is hungry so it is vital every bed gets a generous mulch of organic matter over the winter to replenish. We were short last year and I really saw the difference in beds that were neglected, they had more weeds and had less water retention which led directly to weaker growth. If you don’t have much homemade don’t be afraid to buy some from local suppliers. A bit more compost really can make a difference. Paths also get their seasonal attention, topped up with fresh wood chips to keep weeds down and make walking easier when the ground turns soft and muddy.
Pumpkins seem to have hit a new level of popularity, with social media, new varieties and elaborate pick-your-own farms making them the stars of autumn. Despite early challenges from slugs and a slow start due to cool weather, our simple little patch pulled through, yielding just enough for a grand display at the hotel’s entrance. Now they’re destined for soup pots or compost bins, having done their job of adding that unmistakable autumn charm.
For me, though, October is really about the brassicas. From broccoli to rocket and cavolo nero, these hardy greens make up nearly three-quarters of the current harvests. Pest threats behind us, and the cooler weather suits them perfectly. The range of colours, from deep greens to purples and even whites, offers a visual feast—and they’re so nutrient-rich, that you feel healthier just seeing them.
Not all crops are safe from pests, though. Outside-grown succulent pak choi has been irresistible for slugs, which have left them ragged and unusable. Thankfully, the trial plants in the polytunnel have fared better; with fewer slugs due to the drier conditions, we’ll likely have some to harvest.
And after the setback with our leeks last year, I’m especially pleased with this year’s crop, protected under fine mesh from allium leaf miner since they were transplanted in June. October’s rains have given them a final swell, and they’re ready to harvest, plump and beautiful.
I’m continuously inspired by the vibrancy of these vegetables and by how, in four summers, we’ve seen the harvests grow richer all without any chemicals, the opposite of having to use stronger and stronger chemicals each year to maintain a harvest. While our methods may not change the world overnight, each small effort feels like a step toward a more sustainable future. Here’s to many more flavourful harvests this autumn, and I hope you’re enjoying them too!
My new recipe is up - CHOCOLATE BROWNIE PUMPKIN CHEESECAKE
Until next time…
Darren Stephens
Chef-Gardener, Homewood
